Discover What’s Best for Your Bird

 CAGE

• Minimum size: 36" wide x 28" deep x 46" high. A larger size of 36" wide x 24" deep x 40" high is also recommended.
• Bar spacing: 3/4" to 1".
• Other considerations: These intelligent birds need plenty of enrichment. Ensure the cage is large enough for a variety of toys and different perches at varying heights. 

TOYS

• Puzzle and foraging toys: Interactive toys and complex foraging devices are perfect for keeping a Grey's mind sharp.
• Chewable blocks: Hardwood blocks, rope knots, and large cardboard pieces offer a satisfying chewing experience.
• Foot toys: Greys are adept at using their feet and enjoy manipulating small objects. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning an African Grey is a significant, lifelong commitment to a highly intelligent, sensitive, and social companion bird that requires extensive daily time, training, mental stimulation, and specialized care to prevent behavioral issues like feather plucking. These parrots bond deeply with their families, thrive on routine, need large, non-toxic cages with varied perches, a balanced diet of pellets, fruits, and nuts, and constant supervision when out of their cage to prevent destruction or accidents. 

African greys should generally not be housed with smaller birds as their powerful beaks can easily cause fatal injuries. It's also risky to house an African Grey with other large parrots, such as macaws or cockatoos, due to potential aggression, stress from size differences, and territorial instincts. 

PERCHES

Good perches for an African Grey include natural, unpolished wood branches, rope perches, and flat perches, as they provide varied textures and diameters to exercise feet and encourage natural behavior. Bad perches include uniform dowels, sand, and concrete perches, which can cause pressure sores, stiffness, and bacterial infections (bumblefoot), and should be replaced with natural wood options. A variety of materials, sizes, and textures is essential for promoting foot health, beak maintenance, mental stimulation, and overall well-being in African Grey parrots.

Good Perches

Natural Wood Perches:

These are the best choice because they mimic the natural branches found in the wild. Their varying diameters, textures, and shapes allow your parrot's feet to constantly adjust their grip, strengthening their foot muscles and distributing pressure to prevent stiffness and foot problems. 

Rope Perches:

Soft and comfortable, rope perches provide relief for a parrot's feet, especially for older or arthritic birds. However, they should be regularly checked for fraying or loose strings that could trap a parrot's toes or nails. 

Flat or Platform Perches:

Offering a flat surface for resting and stretching their feet allows for complete foot relaxation and can be used for easier foraging toy placement. 

Safe, Edible Perches:

Some perches are made from edible minerals like calcium or bee pollen, providing essential vitamins and minerals as your parrot chews on them. 

Perches to Avoid

Dowel Perches: 

These uniform perches, especially if they are the only type used, can lead to pressure sores, stiffness, and even bumblefoot (a painful bacterial infection) because the feet remain in the same position for extended periods. 

Sand and Concrete Perches: 

While sometimes sold as nail-grooming tools, these abrasive perches can cause painful abrasions and infections on the underside of your parrot's feet and toes. 

Unsafe Wood: 

Ensure any natural wood you provide is non-toxic and properly cleaned. Woods like cherry are not safe for consumption and could cause harm. 

Important Considerations

Variety is Key: 

Offer a variety of perch types, materials, and diameters to promote physical health, stimulate mental activity, and prevent boredom and behavioral problems. 

Chew-Resistant Materials: 

Since African Greys naturally chew, provide perches that are durable enough to withstand their beaks. 

Placement: 

Orient perches with different textures and diameters to discourage droppings from landing on other perches or food and water bowls, which helps maintain cleanliness. 

 CAGE

• Minimum size: At least 36" wide x 24" deep x 36" high. Larger is always better.
• Bar spacing: 3/4".
• Other considerations: Galahs are active and playful. Provide plenty of durable toys and perches. Strong locks are a must, as cockatoos are known escape artists. 

TOYS

• Chewable wood toys: They need tough toys to whittle away at. Offer durable blocks and natural wood perches.
• Shredding toys: Despite their strong beaks, they also enjoy softer materials like cardboard and palm leaf to shred.
• Climbing frames: Galahs love to climb, so large rope nets or multi-level play gyms are a great fit. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning a Galah cockatoo is a significant, long-term commitment requiring immense patience, dedication, and time for a bird with high social, mental, and physical needs. Galahs are intelligent, affectionate, and energetic birds that require extensive daily interaction, mental stimulation through toys and foraging activities, a large enclosure, and a varied, healthy diet to prevent boredom and destructive behaviors. Owners must also be prepared for their potent beaks and biting potential, messy habits, loud vocalizations, potential for moodiness, and the commitment to a potentially 40-year or longer lifespan.   

 Galah cockatoos should not be caged with most other bird species due to their potential for aggression, size differences, and the risk of disease transmission. Species with similar needs, such as other galahs, cockatoos, and corellas, are generally better companions, though even these can be aggressive. Introducing any new birds requires slow, careful monitoring in neutral territory to ensure safety and prevent injury.  

PERCHES

Good perches for a Galah cockatoo include natural, varied-diameter branches with rough textures, such as Manzanita and Java wood, for foot health. Avoid perches that are uniformly smooth, made of toxic wood, or have sand, concrete, or loose rope fibers, as these can cause foot problems or pose ingestion risks. Provide a variety of perches in different shapes, sizes, and materials to offer exercise and prevent foot fatigue.  

Good Perches

Natural wood branches: 

These are ideal because their varying diameters and rough surfaces give your cockatoo's feet a good workout and prevent repetitive strain. 

Hardwoods like Manzanita and Java wood: 

These are durable, safe, and offer a hard surface that is good for your parrot's feet. 

Platform perches: 

A flat shelf or platform can provide a resting place for your bird's feet to lie flat, offering a different kind of comfort. 

Perches to Avoid

Smooth, dowel-style perches: 

These offer a single diameter, which cramps a bird's feet and can lead to stiffness and discomfort over time. 

Sand, concrete, and calcium perches: 

These are abrasive and can cause painful cuts, abrasions, and infections on your bird's feet. 

Unsafe or non-bird-safe wood: 

Always use non-toxic, properly washed, and disinfected wood to prevent poisoning from harmful chemicals. 

Rope perches: 

These can become dangerous if a bird chews on them, as strands can get tangled around the toes or be swallowed, leading to impaction. 

Important Considerations

Variety is key: 

Offer a selection of different perches to provide different types of grip and surface for your bird's feet. 

Monitor for wear and tear: 

Check rope perches regularly for fraying and remove them if they show signs of damage. 

Bake and clean natural wood: 

If you collect branches from outside, ensure they are thoroughly baked and cleaned before being placed in the cage. 

Vary the perch angles: 

Arrange perches at different angles to encourage your cockatoo to climb and exercise its joints. 

 CAGE

• Minimum size: At least 36" wide x 24" deep x 24" high to allow for their long tails.
• Bar spacing: 1/2" to 5/8".
• Other considerations: Ringnecks are very active and need lots of space to climb and play. 

TOYS

• Shredding toys: They enjoy toys made from softer wood, sola, yucca, and cardboard that they can shred and destroy.
• Foraging challenges: With their problem-solving skills, Ringnecks are ideal for more difficult foraging toys.
• Swings and bells: They often enjoy rope swings and durable, bird-safe bells. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning an Indian Ringneck requires a long-term commitment, as they are intelligent, vocal, and potentially destructive birds that can live for over 25 years. They need owners who are patient and willing to provide daily attention for training and socialization, especially to navigate their hormonal and "bluffing" phases. Ringnecks also need a large cage with plenty of toys for chewing and a varied diet to maintain their health. 

  Indian Ringnecks should not be caged with smaller birds like budgies, cockatiels, and potentially other smaller species, because they can be territorial and aggressive, and their larger size can lead to fatal injuries. Even if birds seem to get along, a ringneck's bite can be deadly to a smaller bird, and territorial behaviors or stress can result in feather plucking or physical confrontations.  

PERCHES

Good perches for an Indian Ringneck include natural wood branches of various diameters and textures to exercise their feet and file their beaks and nails, as well as rope perches made of natural fibers like sisal or jute. Avoid perches that are uniform in diameter (like many dowel perches), smooth and slippery (like plastic), or abrasive (like sanded perches), as these can lead to foot problems, pressure sores, or irritation. Sand perches are particularly bad because ingesting sand can irritate the bird's digestive tract.  

Good Perches

Natural Wood Branches: 

Offer a variety of diameters and rough textures to promote foot health, provide a surface for chewing, and naturally file beaks and nails. Safe woods include apple, hazel, or willow. 

Natural Fiber Rope Perches: 

Made from materials like sisal, hemp, or jute, these offer a soft, comfortable surface for resting and can be shaped in various configurations. 

Platform Perches: 

Flat perches can provide a resting surface for birds with foot issues or those who need to stretch their feet

Perches to Avoid

Uniform Dowel Perches: Found in many cages, these smooth, uniform perches keep feet in the same position, potentially causing pressure sores, stiffness, and lack of exercise. 

Plastic Perches: These are often smooth, slippery, and can be chewed by a bird, potentially creating sharp or toxic edges. 

Sand and Sandpaper Perches: These are dangerous because parrots can ingest the sand, which can cause gastrointestinal irritation and blockages. Sandpaper perches can also be too abrasive, leading to sores on the feet. 

Sanded Perches: While they may seem helpful for nail trimming, the constant abrasive surface can irritate feet and cause sores. 

Cotton Rope Perches: Cotton can be ingested and cause crop impaction, and loose fibers can trap toes or nails. 

Important Considerations

Variety: Offer a variety of perches in different textures, shapes, and diameters to keep your parrot's feet healthy and prevent boredom. 

Size: Ensure the perch is appropriately sized so the bird's toes can wrap about three-quarters of the way around it. 

Safety: Only use woods from non-toxic trees and clean them thoroughly before use. 

CAGE

• Minimum size: 32" wide x 21" deep with 1/2" to 3/4" bar spacing.
• Bar spacing: 1/2" to 3/4".
• Other considerations: Caiques are known as "clowns" and are very active. A cage that can accommodate many toys and perches to keep them occupied is crucial. 

TOYS

• Foot toys: They especially love small items they can grasp with their feet, like plastic rings, wood pieces, and leather shapes.
• Acrylic toys: Caiques are heavy chewers, so tough acrylic toys offer long-lasting entertainment.
• Chewable toys: A steady supply of shreddable toys made of wood, rope, and leather is essential to satisfy their chewing instincts. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

 Owning a White-bellied Caique means committing to a highly energetic, intelligent, and social bird often called the "clown of the bird world". They form strong bonds with their owners and require significant daily interaction and mental stimulation to thrive.  

White-bellied caiques should generally not be housed with other species of birds due to their aggressive and territorial nature, which can lead to serious injury or death for the other bird. This risk is especially high with birds of different sizes and species, as caiques can be particularly aggressive towards much larger or smaller birds regardless of the size difference. It is safer to house caiques separately from other birds, with supervised interactions only if the birds have grown up together, are of the same species, and have established a strong, peaceful bond.

PERCHES

For a white-bellied caique, good perches are natural wood branches of varying diameters and soft rope, while bad perches include toxic wood, uniform dowel rods, and abrasive materials like sandpaper or concrete perches. Variety is key to maintaining your bird's foot health and preventing pressure sores.

Good Perches

Natural wood branches: This is the best option because the irregular shapes and widths allow your caique's feet to exercise and prevent pressure sores from constant pressure on one spot. Safe woods include:

Manzanita

Java wood

Grapevine

Apple or other fruit woods (ensure they are untreated)

Pine (untreated)

Balsa (for chewing, not a permanent perch)

Rope perches: Made from natural fibers like hemp or cotton, braided rope perches can be a comfortable surface for your bird's feet. These are especially good for older birds with arthritis.

Abrasive perches (in moderation): A single concrete or mineral perch can help keep your caique's nails and beak trimmed naturally. However, they should not be the main perch, as too much time on a rough surface can cause foot irritation and sores. Place it by a food bowl to limit the time spent on it.

Flat perches: A platform perch provides a space for your bird to rest its feet completely flat, which is great for foot health and for stretching. 

Perches to Avoid

Wooden dowel perches: The smooth, uniform shape and diameter of these perches force your bird to grip in the same way all the time. This can lead to foot problems like arthritis and pressure sores, sometimes called "bumblefoot".

Sandpaper-covered perches: These are too abrasive and can cause painful cuts and irritation on the bottom of your caique's feet.

Plastic perches: These are often too slippery and can lead to falls. Caiques can also chew on the plastic and ingest sharp pieces.

Toxic woods: Never use wood that is treated or from a tree that has been sprayed with pesticides. Some woods are naturally toxic to birds. Toxic woods to avoid include:

Cherry, Peach, Plum (the Prunus species)

Oak (controversial due to tannins, best to avoid)

Redwood and Cedar

Yew, Mistletoe, and Holly

Fuzzy huts and frayed rope: Your caique could chew and ingest the fibers from these materials, leading to life-threatening crop impactions. If you use rope, inspect it regularly and remove it if it starts to fray. 

Important Considerations

Provide variety: A healthy cage for a caique will have perches of varying sizes, materials, and textures. Place them at different heights to create a stimulating environment.

Size it right: Your caique's toes should wrap about two-thirds to three-quarters of the way around the perch. If its toes overlap, the perch is too small.

Keep them clean: Regularly clean all perches to prevent the buildup of bacteria, which can cause foot infections. 

CAGE

• Minimum size: At least 30" wide x 30" deep x 36" high, but a larger size is recommended, with 3/4" or smaller bar spacing.
• Other considerations: Provide various toys and perches for these energetic birds. 

TOYS

• Shreddable toys: They enjoy chewing on soft wood (like balsa), vines, and rope.
• Foraging toys: Both species are highly motivated by foraging and will enthusiastically work to retrieve treats from puzzles.
• Acrobatic toys: They love to climb and swing, so ladders and boings are excellent for physical activity.
• Noisemakers: Conures often enjoy toys that jingle or rattle, but ensure any bells are stainless steel and bird-safe to prevent toe or beak injuries. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning a Sun Conure is a big commitment requiring a spacious cage, a diverse diet of fresh fruits, veggies, and pellets, and significant time for social interaction and training due to their intelligence and need for mental stimulation. Sun Conures are known for being very loud with calls designed to travel long distances, and they are a commitment of 15-30 years or more. A large cage, plenty of stimulating toys, and consistent social interaction are essential to prevent destructive or stressed behaviors.   

Sun conures should generally not be housed in the same cage with different species of birds, particularly smaller or more timid birds like budgies, cockatiels, and finches, due to their aggressive nature, strong beak strength, and potentially conflicting needs. Even with larger parrots, personalities and species differences often lead to conflict, so it is best practice to house different species separately. While other conures may get along, introducing birds of different species requires careful, supervised introductions in a neutral location, and even then, conflicts can still arise.  

PERCHES

Good perches for a sun conure are natural branches, various-sized and textured wood perches, rope perches, calcium perches, and platform perches to exercise their feet. Avoid smooth, cylindrical dowels and sandpaper or gravel-coated perches, as well as perches that are too wide or made of non-toxic wood or cotton fibers that can cause abrasions, infections, or crop impaction.  

Good Perches

Natural Branches: 

These offer various textures and irregular shapes, which are excellent for exercising your conure's feet and preventing pressure sores. 

Varying Sizes and Textures: 

Provide perches with different diameters and textures to promote foot exercise. 

Rope Perches: 

Choose perches made from natural fibers like hemp or jute. These provide a comfortable grip for your conure's feet, especially for older birds. 

Calcium Perches: 

These help to naturally trim a bird's nails and provide a source of calcium. They are available in various forms, including cuttlebone. 

Platform Perches: 

These offer a flat surface for resting, allowing your conure to stretch their feet completely flat. 

Cork Perches: 

Cork is a safe and engaging material that is easily shredded, fulfilling natural chewing instincts. 

Perches to Avoid

Smooth, Cylindrical Dowels: 

These offer no texture and are too smooth for birds to grip properly, which can lead to falls and injuries. 

Sandpaper/Gravel-Coated Perches: 

These can cause painful abrasions on the underside of your bird's feet and introduce bacteria to any wounds, leading to infection. 

Perches That Are Too Wide: 

A perch that is too wide for your conure's feet will make it difficult to grip, increasing the risk of falling. 

Rope Made with Non-Toxic Fibers: 

Cotton fibers can be accidentally ingested by birds, which can lead to crop impaction (a blockage in the digestive tract). 

Certain Woods: 

Avoid perches made from woods that are toxic to birds, such as oak, alder, apricot, cedar, peach, and plum. 

CAGE

• Minimum size: 24" wide x 24" deep x 24" high with 1/2" to 5/8" bar spacing.
• Other considerations: These playful birds benefit from horizontal bars for climbing and plenty of toys. 

TOYS

• Shreddable toys: They enjoy chewing on soft wood (like balsa), vines, and rope.
• Foraging toys: Both species are highly motivated by foraging and will enthusiastically work to retrieve treats from puzzles.
• Acrobatic toys: They love to climb and swing, so ladders and boings are excellent for physical activity.
• Noisemakers: Conures often enjoy toys that jingle or rattle, but ensure any bells are stainless steel and bird-safe to prevent toe or beak injuries. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning a green cheek conure is a rewarding experience but requires a significant, long-term commitment of 20-30+ years. They are intelligent, playful, and affectionate birds known for their small size and comparatively quiet nature, though they can still be loud at times. Owners must provide a spacious cage, a balanced diet, plenty of toys for stimulation, and daily social interaction. Be prepared for the high costs associated with their care, including veterinary bills from a specialized avian vet, as well as the mess they create.   

Green-cheeked conures should not be housed with smaller birds like budgies, cockatiels, and parrotlets because they can be aggressive and territorial, leading to the smaller birds being bullied or injured. While they can sometimes get along with other pyrrhura conures or similarly sized birds in a supervised setting, it's best to keep different bird species in separate cages and to introduce them slowly in a neutral territory to prevent potential conflict.   

PERCHES

Good perches for a green cheek conure include natural wood branches of varying diameters (from 1-2 cm for main perches) and textures, like Java wood or Aussie bush perches, to promote foot health and natural chewing. Avoid perches made of uniform dowels, as they don't provide foot exercise. Also avoid perches that are too smooth (like standard dowels), or made of cheap materials that may be treated with pesticides. Finally, avoid too much time on sandpaper or cement perches, as their abrasive surfaces are harmful to feet.  

Good Perches

Natural Wood Branches: 

Use non-toxic branches from safe trees like apple, elm, ash, or maple, which offer variable diameters and textures to exercise your conure's feet and nails. 

Specialty Wood Perches: 

Options like Java wood and Aussie bush perches are excellent choices for providing variation and enrichment in the cage. 

Platform Perches: 

These provide a surface for your bird to rest and stretch its feet. 

Rope Perches: 

Made from 100% natural fibers like hemp or cotton, these can offer comfortable relief from harder perches. 

Perches to Avoid

Standard Wooden Dowel Perches: 

These often come with cages and have a uniform, smooth surface that doesn't provide foot exercise. 

Sandpaper or Cement Perches: 

While useful for short-term wear and tear of nails, these are not for long-term perching. The abrasive texture can irritate the skin with prolonged use. 

Frayed Rope Perches: 

Any frayed parts of rope perches are a hazard, as they can easily trap your bird's toes and nails. 

Perches with Square Edges: 

These are not ideal as they can cause discomfort or sores on your bird's feet. 

Important Considerations

Variety: 

Provide a variety of perch types to prevent pressure points on your conure's feet. 

Diameter: 

For conures, the ideal main perch diameter is about 1 to 2 cm. 

Safety: 

Only use non-toxic, untreated branches, and be careful with hardware, as cheap or foreign-made toys may have harmful pesticides. 

Placement: 

Avoid placing calcium or cement perches at the highest point in the cage, as their texture can be more damaging at the highest point. 

CAGE

• Minimum size: 24" x 24" is a common recommendation, though some sources suggest 36" x 36" x 36". Bar spacing should be 1/2" to 5/8".
• Other considerations: Secure locks are needed as Quakers are known to escape. 

TOYS

• Chew toys: They enjoy shreddable materials like cardboard, wood, and ropes for chewing and preening.
• Foraging toys: As problem-solvers, Quakers enjoy puzzle-type foraging toys that offer a challenge.
• Noisy toys: Many Quakers enjoy bells and other musical toys, which can lead to fun—and loud—sessions. 

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning a Quaker parrot (or monk parakeet) requires significant commitment due to their high intelligence, need for constant social interaction and mental stimulation, and long lifespan of 20-30 years. They are highly vocal, can learn to talk and mimic sounds, and are known for their strong personalities, sometimes described as being like "forever toddlers". While they can be very affectionate and trainable with positive reinforcement, owners must be prepared for potential territorial behavior, hard biting, and the responsibility of providing an enriching environment to prevent boredom and destructive habits.  

Quaker parrots should not be caged with smaller, more delicate birds like cockatiels and budgies due to their territorial nature and strong, chisel-shaped beaks, which can inflict serious injury or even death to the smaller bird. While some species can get along, it is generally safer to house quakers in separate cages to avoid potential aggression, especially when they are hormonal or when there is a significant size difference between the birds.   

PERCHES

For a Quaker parrot, good perches mimic the varying diameters, textures, and shapes of natural tree branches to prevent foot problems like bumblefoot. Bad perches include abrasive, uniform, or synthetic options that can cause injury or impaction. 

Good Perches

A variety of the following types will provide the best environment for your parrot's foot health and mental stimulation. 

Natural wood branches: These are the best choice. Their irregular, varied diameters and textures exercise your parrot's feet and help maintain their nails and beak naturally. Safe options include:

Manzanita

Grapevine

Apple

Dragonwood

Birch

Ash

Pine (untreated)

Rope perches: Soft cotton or natural hemp rope offers a comfortable resting spot, especially for birds with arthritis. Look for options with a bendable wire core to create different shapes. If your Quaker chews on the rope, trim any loose fibers to prevent ingestion and crop impaction.

Platform perches: Flat perches give your Quaker a place to rest their feet fully and take pressure off their joints. They can also be used as a feeding or play station.

Mineral or cement perches: These textured perches help with nail and beak grooming and should be used sparingly as part of a varied assortment. They should be placed near a food or water dish so your parrot doesn't stand on them for long periods. 

Perches to Avoid

Sandpaper-covered perches: These are far too abrasive and can cause painful sores, irritation, and bleeding on your parrot's feet.

Smooth wooden dowels: The uniform diameter of the standard dowel perches that come with many cages puts constant pressure on the same spots of your parrot's feet, which can lead to pressure sores and a serious bacterial infection called bumblefoot.

Synthetic rope perches: Ropes made of synthetic fibers can be dangerous if a bird chews and ingests them, as the fibers are not digestible and can cause life-threatening crop impaction. Stick to natural fibers like hemp and cotton.

Plastic perches: While easy to clean, they can be slippery and offer no texture for gripping. Larger birds like Quakers can chew and splinter the plastic, which can be dangerous if ingested.

Foraged wood from toxic trees: Many common trees and plants are toxic to birds. Unless you can confirm the species is safe, do not use foraged wood. Always avoid wood treated with pesticides. Some common toxic woods include oak, cherry, cedar, and oleander. 

CAGE

• Minimum size: 24" x 24" with 1/2" bar spacing is a minimum, but a flight cage is preferable.
• Other considerations: Ensure appropriate bar spacing for climbing and provide plenty of perches and toys. 

TOYS

• Destroyable toys: They appreciate shreddable toys made from softer materials like woven palm, paper, and balsa wood.
• Foraging toys: Hiding treats in cardboard rolls or shallow dishes with paper is a great way to engage them.
• Bells and swings: Cockatiels enjoy simple noise-making toys and swings, which provide gentle movement and enrichment.

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Owning a cockatiel involves providing daily companionship, a large cage with toys for mental stimulation, a diverse diet of pellets and fresh foods, and 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness for sleep. These social birds can be affectionate and learn to talk and whistle, but they also require time and patience due to their intelligent, flighty, and sometimes neophobic (fearful of new things) nature. Potential owners should be prepared for a long-term commitment, as cockatiels can live for over 20 years.   

Cockatiels should not be caged with birds that are significantly larger than them, have more aggressive personalities, or possess hooked beaks, such as larger parrots like Quakers and conures, to prevent serious injury or death. It's also unsafe to house a cockatiel with smaller birds like canaries or finches, as the cockatiel can harm them. While it's often not recommended to mix different parrot species even when they are similar in size, the best practice is to provide each bird with its own cage and introduce them slowly in a common area under supervision. 

PERCHES

Good perches for a cockatiel include a variety of natural wood, rope (untreated cotton or hemp), and Manzanita branches of different textures and diameters to promote foot health. Avoid perches made of sandpaper, plastic, concrete, or other synthetic materials, as well as treated wood, because these can injure a bird's feet or release harmful substances.  

Good Perches

Natural Wood: 

Use perches made from safe, natural wood like fir or dragon wood, offering different shapes and sizes to provide exercise for the feet. 

Rope Perches: 

Braided rope made from natural, untreated cotton or hemp is a comfortable option, especially for older birds. However, monitor for fraying, as threads can cause blockages if ingested. 

Manzanita Perches: 

These are acceptable and offer a natural look and texture, though they can be a bit slippery. 

Varied Sizes & Textures: 

Provide a mix of perch sizes and textures to keep a cockatiel's feet in good condition and prevent pressure sores. 

Perches to Avoid

Sandpaper and Concrete Perches: 

The rough texture of these perches can cause irritation, cuts, and infections on your bird's feet. 

Plastic Perches: 

These are generally too smooth, allowing the bird's foot to flatten, and they don't offer the necessary texture for good foot health. 

Treated or Synthetic Wood: 

Avoid any wood that is treated or any perch made of synthetic materials, as they may release harmful chemicals or fumes. 

Perches with Harmful Features: 

Do not use perches with sharp edges, splinters, or loose parts that could injure your bird or become entangled in their feet.